Vienna:
There are very few places in time I would
like to of visited in time.
Vienna would be one of them. Few
of us can recall that the Austrian
Hungarian Empire not only ruled much of Europe
for over 380 years, that they were the center of
the universe. They were rich victors whom knew
how to live, spending their wealth wisely on the
Arts, they bathed in it. Lacking any other forms
of entertainment
or diversion in the idle dark hours, from 1450
- 1880's they spent lavishly on their thrown's,
summer palaces, winter
fortresses, foreign guest plazas. It was the place
to be seen, and heard from if you were part of
the very choice few.
If you were connected enough to be invited
to be part of the Habsburge gatherings,
it was the only place that Mozart or Hayden
or Beethoven could of emerged. You can see
it reflected in the city walls down to every
last detail. The Spires calling to the heavens,
every window laced in stone arches, every
doorway standing tall; with roman statues
heroically standing proud holding up the doorways.
They not only conquered man, but the
silent forest too. Building cities grand, strong,
and bowing to god in a curved lattice grid.
So proud were they, that
they would tear down their fortress
walls in the 1850's as they were that confident
that they would last forever, as they owned it
all. They were the ,"man" who did everything
possible to live civilized lives so far removed
from that
barbaric
lifestyles of the time. This is where you yearned
to eat, work & to play.
It is one thing to be rich, yet it is quite another
to know what to do with it or simply
have good common taste. The Viennese
like the Floriens, Romans, and Parisians,
had tremendous reflection.
They were wonderful at balance in their lives,
and reminding us all from where you could fall
if you were not
prudent. They couldn't just have a sweet statue
of goddesses inviting us, they always had to remind
us and surrounded with serpents & snakes, or
where anyone could fall, from. A Cross
could not be a cross with Jesus on it, it had
to be erupting from the skull and crossbones;
in graphically strong counters. The stone would
be cut in smooth glazed polishes, offset against
ruff, coarse, natural rock. Everything had to
be balanced, reminded of our mortality. It was
infectious, taste was a way of being civilized,
shedding your
façades.
There had to be something in the water.
Coming out of the Dark Ages, and illiteracy; in
this Renaissance or rebirth, the Arts were alive
for
the conquers. Celebrating alike, and the spoils
of the victors was what it was all about if you
were lucky enough
to be invited to the ball. The city was alive in
artistic discourse, the buildings came to life
in terrocotta,
no wooden shacks for these valor's. It is
almost too easy to see why Mozart,
or Bach worked & gravitated there, Vienna was
their home & refuge. They were tested daily,
were you good enough, to be hired by the court ?
They could look out their windows
for inspiration. Seeing the delicious gothic spires
tempting the heavens one after another in a wonderful
harmonious reflection. Or take a walk among the
palaces,
in the evening and write Don Giovanni, or
The Requiem 626. Yet he could not write
a simple melody, it had to have counters, reflections
in the base line, teasing in the flutes, pauses
of immeasurable length, into soaring crescendos.
Their music breathed
with the life that they would encounter in their
daily musings. Nothing was ever simple, yet well
thought out and refined,
every note was perfect for mocking time, yet they
hardly knew it. Vienna was their competitive proving grounds,
demanding.
It is easy to see why Mozart has lasted 220 years,
and why although Austria can barley be recalled today
after WW I, it is their music or the arts, influence
that recalls the ages. With an Empire comprising
at least 5 other languages, it was it's instrumentals that
could unite them all in a single, universal tongue. As puzzling as it may
seam today that Mozart died virtually lost and broken man from Vienna
at the early age of 36, and placed in a paupers
grave, it was only because he was just another musician
at the time in a city of greats. There is
much culturally that we owe to Vienna
today. We need be reminded that artistically it was
not Berlin, St, Petersburg, or Zurich that we
emerged from culturally, but Vienna's center that we
all silently emulate.
Power is as power does, inbreeding
was a way of life, holding on as in the Hapsburg
family. They loved their power and wealth.
They would always have maids and servants
in the room when they made love as they had to know.
Was the prince a prince; or who the proclaimed
prince's father was. It was a serious business.
There were few other matrimonial
choices or cultural, social ties with others
who lived as you did; the wealthy & rich kings & princesses.
The only options were royalty from other countries, alliances and
sharing of thrones that was a unwelcome sharing of power & fortunes,
so they inbred. It made for unhealthy offspring. That
is why mothers would give birth to 10 children as only
4 would survive to adult
ages. These Kings were ruthless, nasty, greedy, guised
in palaces.
I loved Europe, and could see myself living there.
I was amazed that I could feel so comfortable in such a short amount of
time. Yet I was still trying to understand the differences.
I was just a traveler, so I saw this amazing past. In america we are babies,
telling the rest of the world how to live ?
. . . and there I saw the difference, americans are disposable, throw it
away, start over tomorrow.
If one
were to try to make a broad argument in terms of
understanding the differences, one can begin
to see it from our architecture
. . . Our houses are designed to thrown away after
80 years, we use wood, they stone; history means almost
nothing to an american. We live in short
20 year generational spans. We change our presidents
every 4 years, they wait on & on.
In Europe you build
in brick and ceramic roofs like your not going to ever move in 300 years ?
They love their history, which can be cumbersome, and impossible
to live up too. Holding on after you get invaded time after
time. They are stubborn, yet loyal, hating change. American's
loving change, willing to move on; yet are un loyal, undisciplined, optimistic,
free to move on to the next one in a heart beat.
One can learn from your mistakes as history will teach you, or you can chose to be ignorant,
and live by the seat of your pants, and react to change.
It was also home to Sigmund Fraud.
All photos property of Strodl
2008 |